Zzr1400 which oil

I was suprised at some of the pic's of oil pans I see from some of our members here. I would change mine more often..

Need to have bone spurs removed on rotator cup. Glad my old Vette has cold air and good tunes. Glad your OK.. I have a new amp for Home Theater system. I run this oil in the ZX14 supercharged race car engine which runs on the circuit flat out for 15 to 20 mins at a time and oil temps.

The car is now running 2 oil coolers. Some people say that if I go back to the 10W40 the oil will run cooler than the 15W Any ideas on this? If the oil is marketed as "safe for flat tappets" then you are ok. Your buckets and cams need phosphorous and zinc and those oils have very little in them anymore. The automotive manufacturers have pressured API to remove these additives because they damage plate the catalyst and reduce there effectiveness over time and they have to warranty these catalytic converters for , miles now.

Its not the bearings that are a problem its the High pressure areas like the flat tappets that you need to worry about. This is why you are seeing Titanium valves in these engines. The light weight TI valves allow the OEMs to run lighter tension valve springs to help minimize bucket and cam wear. This also frees up some HP. When heads come in I can tell what buckets have been run with proper levels of phosphorous and zinc.

The ones that haven't are worn wavy. The buckets get a wear pattern started that matches the cam lobe. At that point if you take the buckets out and switch them all around to different lobes and run the engine you are changing the contact pattern and the abnormal wear accelerates even faster.

Add in a set of 65 pound springs and aggressive cams and the problem gets even worse. The cam lobes wear out and the buckets dish out. I see it every day. Take a look at our Returning an item help page for more details. You're covered by the eBay Money Back Guarantee if you receive an item that is not as described in the listing. Most purchases from business sellers are protected by the Consumer Contract Regulations which give you the right to cancel the purchase within 14 days after the day you receive the item.

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Postcode: Please enter a valid postcode. Express Delivery International Priority Shipping. Representative example. Does not matter the oil blends Not sloppy lever pulls; not a loose chain; more like 2, miles and it's time.

Ask Grn. I think he was experiencing the same thing. I sure can tell something changed. Your bike, Vic. I have junk science as my evidence. My cold compression numbers read higher than most warmed and tested: I'll bet. My clutch does not slip with the mixing. However, on average mind you, just those every so often low, robust rpm WOT's in 6th I can tell. This is the only time it was experienced was with fresh full syn. So I backed off, and miles later I had the urge again and it became a no show.

I roll the bike backwards; down the driveway in 1st gear; creates super drag on the clutch plates. That's 15w40 mixed with straight 50w. After so many miles, the bike eventually begins to roll with less drag. Sound like shift quality going down hill?.. It's these new fancy oils with all there added chemistry that mess things up. The additives in the 50w racing oil have separated and I do not shake the can up, I just pour.

It's plain old bulk oil and if the industrial revolution just had plain oil keeping those machines running No, In layman's terms if we use 0w10, then left number is how thin and fast it flows when cold. Right number says it's at this range when warm. So if summer comes, the number runs up to 20w And if using straight 50w, it flows very thick and slow. So sheer happens either way with any weight. What I'm saying is distilled is still oil in bulk and if I think industrial revolution and how crude things were back then chemistry wise, oil is oil, bulk is bulk.

As logical as it sounds, is this possible? For viscosity measurement purposes, the force for measurement is typically gravity. Measured viscosity is the value of fluid viscosity, typically presented in units of centistokes cSt. Centistokes is the most commonly used unit. The measured viscosity value must also include the temperature at which the fluid was measured.

Viscosity grade is the range of measured viscosity at a standard fluid temperature. Several viscosity grade scales exist; the SAE scale is universal for automotive engine oils. This part of the grade is determined at the standard fluid temp. The currently defined SAE grades are 20, 30, 40, 50, and With an understanding of viscosity and viscosity grade, you can now look at the accompanying Viscosity Grade chart that summarizes the SAE engine oil viscosity criteria.

Notice how each major grade is in between the lighter and heavier grades adjoining it. Mixing multi-viscosity 30 weight e. And since the winter grade e. However, you cannot accurately predict what the result will be just by the numbers on each bottle and the mixture ratio.

Conversely, mixing a 5W and a 20W cannot reliably result in Such a viscosity grade does not exist and that the oil must fall within one of the available combinations of winter and major grades. There is no other possibility. Also, with respect to the winter grade, mixing oils with disparate winter grades will result in some undefined combination winter grade.

Everything I've read supports with alg8er posted. Oils, their additive packages, are engineered to work in some specific manner to protect an engine. You may end up with a concoction that negates the strengths of either, or maybe the ultimate super oil, the thing is you just don't know.

Do I think if someone mixes some oil they'll likely blow their engine up? But I don't believe it's because they're genius, it's just more like as long as you're running oil it's gonna be ok. I know people with cars kk miles that get their oil changed at Jiffy Lubes and Walmarts and don't even care what brand of filter or oil goes in their car.

The important thing is, they get their oil changed. Here's what I say. If you like the additive package of oil x more than oil y, run oil x. If you change your mind, run oil y or some other oil. For the most part, I think we all agree the most important thing is to perform oil changes and maintain oil levels between oil changes. To my earlier point about the high mileage cars, despite where they fall in some exact test most modern oils are good oils capable of protecting your engine.

I've used a lot of different oils in my life. The only oil I will never use again is O'Reilly's full synthetic automotive. But that's only because my personal experience and I run extended intervals in my truck.

I once read that mixing different weights of oil doesn't yield a single, homogenized product, but a blend that is one weight in some places and another in others. Why anyone would mix oils when there are great lubricants out there in various weights is beyond me. I use Mobil 1 or Repsol Full synthetic and have no clutch issues. Have 60k miles on the bike now.